P1010016.jpg=Showing the imperfections of this slubby silk.
P1000984.jpg=Cuff pressed and ready to attach.
P1000997.jpg=Petticoat bodies pattern side front
P1010017.jpg=Finished interior showing the channels sewn to the lining layer.
P1010119.jpg=Left side of bodice.
P1010109.jpg=Trimming off the upper edge of the skirt by my serger.
P1010002.jpg=Petticoat bodies pattern laid out.
P1010019.jpg=Detail of center front upper corner showing the trimmed fabric, ready to fold the edges for a crisp corner.
P1010071.jpg=Showing the other side of the damask.
P1010018.jpg=Interior after all layers sewn, clipped, trimmed and ready to turn.
P1010130.jpg=Once the bodice was mostly sewn, I bound the skirt in a cross-grain of the purple & gold fabric, using the more golden side for a subtle contrast.
P1010007.jpg=Front panels showing sewn channels. Sewn through 2 layers of linen canvas, and 1 layer of cotton/linen lining.
P1000998.jpg=Petticoat bodies pattern back
P1010135.jpg=Side view showing my ample curves.
P1010066.jpg=The two main silk damask fabrics. One is in purple and dark gold, the other in ivory and light golden yellow.
P1010014.jpg=Showing the other piece, sewn, clipped and pressed.
P1000996.jpg=Petticoat bodies pattern front
P1010011.jpg=Trying to find the straight of grain as the edges are not straight.
P1010001.jpg=Petticoat bodies pattern front holding center out to show curve
P1010009.jpg=Prepared interlinings and lining against the red silk dupioni outer fabric.
P1010325.jpg=Showing how the hooks show when the garment is under stress. The outer fabric is shifting back from the interlining and lining layers.
P1010074.jpg=At least one of the pieces will have a centered design.
P1010039.jpg=Pressing seam on padded roll.
P1010318.jpg=Hook & bars used to close the kirtle front.
P1010115.jpg=I use the divide & conquer method which works up a little faster than regular cartridge pleating, but has a sloppy pleat appearance.
P1010043.jpg=Showing the final turn of the cloth edge which hides the lining layer.
P1010065.jpg=The bodice lying flat, which shows the front curve clearly.
P1010127.jpg=Petticoat skirt was slit for 8" down the center front near the waistline to allow me to put on the outfit easily. I first ran a running stitch near the intended cut slit.
P1010005.jpg=Showing how closely the pattern pieces were puzzled together near center front top.
P1010050.jpg=Had to piece a portion of the remnant fabrics for a side gore.
P1010118.jpg=Kirtle bodice nearly compete. The bodice pattern is very similar to the petticoat bodice with a few areas drawn higher, or is bound and sits higher. The front edges overlaps by a half-inch.
P1010324.jpg=Close-up of a bar.
P1000991.jpg=Detail view of the hand sewn neck. It was turned under twice and carefully sewn down with extra stitching at the corners.
P1010075.jpg=Which side looks better? I ended up using the one on the left as the contrast of colors looked better with my skintone. The more golden right clashed with my asian skintone.
P1000989.jpg=Showing the hem, and the longer length of the sleeve which hangs lower than the body.
P1010114.jpg=Detail view of my hand sewing the pleats into place.
P1000999.jpg=Petticoat bodies pattern front again
P1010112.jpg=Ungathered skirt panels on hanger, waiting to be attached.
P1000987.jpg=Showing the smock sleeve view all puffed up.
P1000990.jpg=View of the square neck which was hand sewn.
P1010036.jpg=Detail view showing how the red silk is offset from the lining fabric along the edge. This provides extra fabric for the turn of fabric along the sewn edges.
P1010138.jpg=The skirts are gathering.
P1010010.jpg=Prepared back interlining fabrics prepared with 1 layer of linen canvas, and 1 layer of cotton/linen lining.
P1010122.jpg=Back view of kirtle bodies.
P1010125.jpg=Front view of bodice hooked together.
P1010057.jpg=The petticoat bodies sewn together, and the straps are pinned into place for fitting.
P1010008.jpg=Front panel showing trimmed seam allowance from the linen canvas.
P1000988.jpg=Italian smock back view - yes it is a bit snug.
P1010041.jpg=Detail showing the linen canvas is trimmed just shy of the final seam.
P1010123.jpg=Closer back view of kirtle bodies.
P1010021.jpg=View of sewn back, done similar to the front.
P1010063.jpg=Obligatory cat photo of Bootsie watching me while I was taking photos. She doesn't sit on fabric.
P1010321.jpg=Closer view of hooks & bars.
P1010137.jpg=Just showing the front of the skirt being gathered.
P1010004.jpg=Petticoat bodies pattern laid out on linen canvas for tracing
P1010061.jpg=Trying to show the back view. The straps appear to be close to the body.
P1010012.jpg=View of back pattern piece layed on red silk.
P1010126.jpg=The edge of the slit was then bound with a buttonhole stitch.
P1010128.jpg=For the hem binding, I used my new silamide thread bought from B. Black & Sons. This shows the uncut loop of threads.
P1010111.jpg=Just wanted a close-up shot of my serger foot.
P1010006.jpg=Close puzzled pieced patterns near center front bottom.
P1010129.jpg=Just to show what the name & info is.
P1010062.jpg=The front appears to be a straight edge. Without any boning, there are some wrinkles showing.
P1010133.jpg=Test fitting the kirtle bodice.
P1010121.jpg=Detail view of right side showing bars.
P1000986.jpg=Italian fashion smock front. You can see that the sleeve on one side is rather long.
P1010038.jpg=Pressing seam on wooden clapper.
P1010013.jpg=Front pattern piece sewn, clipped and pressed.
P1010323.jpg=Close-up of a hook.
P1000983.jpg=Smock cuff being pressed on my clapper.
P1000992.jpg=Another view of the puffed up sleeve.
P1010064.jpg=Detail of center front closure area showing the curve of the front pieces.
P1010117.jpg=Detail view, showing the catch stitches that hold the upper skirt edge down into place.
P1010136.jpg=The damask kirtle was backed with cotton flannel for body. Here I am sewing a running stitch to help gather the fullness of the fabric.
P1010139.jpg=A view of my skirts while worn. I'm trying to show some of the  matching designs, but it doesn't show in this pic.
P1010059.jpg=The front curve of the bust can be seen on this side view. There is space for the bosom!
