Diary listings have the most recent entries at the top. You can start
reading the first entry here. Originally posted in my LiveJournal
Tudor Outfit at Hanford ROK
October 11, 2004
Well, this one will be a short entry, I think.
I just wanted to share the photos of my husband and our son wearing
their new garb at Hanford Renaissance of Kings.
My husband's outfit still needs appropriate sleeves, and the "great"
coat (aka surcoat) to make the full outfit, but this is what I have
so far. I plan on working on my own stuff for Kearney, and if I
have time, to work on his stuff. Otherwise, it will hopefully be
done for next year sometime, after I have done more research on
that coat, and figured out the patterning for both the coat and
Yeah, the sleeves.... The ones I was planning on him wearing actually
are Elizabethan split sleeves. I have realized during my epiphany
at faire that they really won't work for his Tudor outfit, so I
will have to research, pattern and create appropriate Tudor ones.
I am not sure if they will be puffy at the shoulder area, or not,
so back to the books on this one as well.
But, here they are.
I am pretty happy overall with both outfits. Now to make my basic
Tudors sparkle and shine, as befitting the next character I get
to play... a niece to the King.
Photos of Tudor Doublet
October 1, 2004
Well, I did a lot of minor repairs, and had some time before my
body runs down, so I did up some photos of the two big projects
I just finished: The Tudor Doublet and Base, and the linen chemise.
Just click on the following thumbnail images to see larger ones.
I thought I would save bandwidth for some people.
Tudor Black Velveteen Doublet & Base With A White Linen Shirt
Here are the mini-pix of the Tudor Doublet and Base, which I have
already discussed in details in the following links: Part I &
Part II. The shirt I am not sure if I posted on it before, but it
was made from linen and done in hand blackwork on the collar and
cuffs. The embroidery on the sleeves are from my sewing machine,
and is more to give the impression of blackwork over a larger area.
|Tudor Black Velveteen Doublet
& Base With A White Linen Shirt
|Almost full shot of Tudor Doublet, Base &
||Upper area of Tudor Doublet, Base & Shirt
||Side shot of of Tudor Doublet, Base &
|Detail of trim matching almost perfectly on
front of Tudor Doublet
||View of organ pleats of base
||Inside detail view of tapes holding the organ
And now, off to bed.
Tudor Doublet & Base, part II
September 29, 2004
The Tudor doublet and base is DONE!!
Well, almost. I am debating if I should put shoulder epaulettes
to broaden the look on top, since all that black on the skirt makes
the bottom look heavy. Well, c0demonkey says it kinda looks like
a maternity dress, for all the pleats from the waist down. There
isn't much on the upper half to balance that out, hence possible
epaulettes. Normally he would be wearing a great coat, but his great
coat won't be started until after Hanford Faire (in time for Kearney,
maybe). Maybe I can borrow one from M, who plays the King. He and
his partner have LOTS of them in their costume closet.
And I wish I had a man's dress form to take photos of the outfit.
It looks nice, but it needs a round form to put it on for the organ
pleats to really look good, not to mention filling the chest properly
for the placket I put in. The organ pleats... I thought those would
not come out too well, because when I sewed them onto the doublet,
well they just didn't look good, and did NOT hang like the organ
pleats seen in various paintings and drawings of the time (like
in Henry VIII's portrait). But once I sewed the tapes to hold the
pleats, then they started hanging properly. Not perfectly, but the
pleats look fuller and more like organ pipes. I think I will have
to make a new cod piece that is larger, cause the old one kinda
hides behind the pleats right now.
Yeah, looking at that Henry portrait really tells me that he needs
the great coat in order to look right. Without it, he will look
very bottom heavy. He needs the larger shoulders to offset the full
So, here's what I have done on my list.
the trim on the skirt to finish
the doublet trimmed
the pleats - mark and sew
the skirt needs to be attached to the doublet
skirt taped underneath to hold organ pleats
create a decorative placket and hook/eye it in place
hand sew hanging loops
- the sleeves (from the Eliz. Doublet) need eyelets
- two strips of eyelets for the doublet itself.
Yeah, the sleeves are still not done. The eyelets will take a lot
of time, and I need to finish other things. So I will hold those
off for later, after I have finished off the following:
- Cam's linen chemise (priority)
- c0demonkey's hat jewels and feathers (priority)
- minor repairs to c0demonkey's pants
- minor repairs to his shirt (it's pulling at the shoulder gusset)
- minor mods to my Tudor bodice sleeves and undersleeves
- whatever else I need to adjust and fix for Hanford, like the
So it looks like the sleeves, while done except for the eyelets,
will have to wait for later. I think I will work on them at faire,
to give me something to do during down times. Maybe he will have
them on Sunday, that would be nice, but I won't sweat it.
But I am starting to sweat the custom tights. The owner promised
they would be in by Hanford, and they should have been here by now,
but still haven't shown up. I will check the mail tomorrow, and
if it isn't in by tomorrow, I am going to call and see where they
While I may take photos tomorrow on the finished doublet that's
now hanging up, I probably won't have time to post them until after
this weekend. I think I also need a day to clean the room again,
and reorganize things, again. I know I am not being efficient or
putting things away like I want and should do. I have too many projects
going on at once, and that is just driving me nuts! Eh, all of it
will have to wait. Sleep calls and Friday is getting closer.
Tudor Doublet & Base Dress Diary, Part
September 17, 2004
I honestly don't think I have posted any info on this project.
I have been taking digi-pics, but it seems they are mostly of the
inside of the garment construction, and nothing, until now, of what
the outside looks like. Well, I don't want to show the doublet part
yet mainly cause I don't want to take the pics right now. The skirt?
Well it's a full circle skirt that will be a pain to photograph
right now in full, but the trim is done, and I have the pics of
the trim below.
Originally, I was just going to make the base that would tie on
over the Eliz doublet, but the more I looked at the images of the
time, the more I realized that just wouldn't look right. As the
doublet is fairly simple enough to create, why not do the whole
So far the doublet itself was easy to create. I based it on my
husband's Elizabethan doublet, because I know that pattern fits
him. It has a deep scoop neckline almost to the belly, that will
have a "plastron" type filler behind it. I believe (although
no docs on this) that there may have been another "doublet"
underneath this outer doublet/jerkin? that would be decorative.
But I couldn't find any images to say one way or the other. Considering
how hot the Tudor events we go to can get (100+), I figured that
if all you see is that area at the chest, that it would be faked
so my husband won't have to deal with the heat issue.
The doublet itself is done, except for the trims. It is made from
black cotton velveteen and is lined in medium weight white linen.
I had to make the doublet first to see what the actual final waist
line would be, as that affected the pattern for the base. I also
won't finish the trim until the base trim is done, so it can match
as best I can. I just realized that the choice I made for distance
on the trim may not work too well on the doublet. Oh well.
The base skirt is a full circle of black velveteen, and it is lined
in black cotton. I was thinking of the crimson silk I have, but
what I have left will have to conspicously line his paned Elizabethan
pants. The base will be organ pleated like the German waffenrock
I did was pleated. This will actually be my first time doing the
pleats, because my friend C. did the pleats on the 'rock. But I
have her notes, and I kinda remember some of her comments on it,
and I did develop the pattern for the 'rock base, so things should
be good. However, on this skirt, I only want to stitch down the
pleats about halfway down the skirt. There is trim I am sewing at
the bottom, and I don't want that to be hidden by sewn pleats. Thankfully,
this method is period as well.
I had to add extra material onto the sides, which puts a nice seam
line across the front and back (kinda obvious), but that's period
so it will stay. I chose to flat fell the seam, even tho it will
show the stitching, because I wanted to be sure the seam would be
encased, and no stretching at the seam itself. I could have french
seamed it, but that would have added extra bulk across the pleat
lines that I didn't want. Choices, choices.
The skirts have hung for two weeks now, and it didn't stretch too
much, but matching it to the pattern, I trimmed off the extra stretched
parts which of course were the heavy bias areas.
The Trim of the Base/Skirt:
Last night I started sewing down the first of the trim before I
sew it all together. Silly me forgot the basic rule of trim, which
is to steam shrink it before I sew it down. Thankfully, in order
to get the straight trim to go around the curve of the circle, I
had to steam it into place. However, I didn't realize it had affected
the trim as much as it did, because it didn't show up as a problem
until I was halfway sewn. I took out the rest of the pins, and moved
the trim into new places, and finished the work. Thank goodness
I leave additional trim at the ends just in case. This time, it
used it all up on one side. And with the steam pressing of the whole
thing, I decided it wasn't worth the time to remove and restitch
the other section, as it didn't cause too noticible a problem. One
nice thing about this trim is that it naturally wants to curve a
Tonight I steamed the trim first, and it took up about an inch
or so. It was neet seeing the trim pull up every time I puffed the
steam. I then sewed down the second half-circle's trim. I also added
to both sections a row of gold cording on each side of the trim,
about 1/4" or so away, to make the trim area look bigger than
it is, and to finish the look. Trim by itself... just doesn't look
completely finished. At least to me it needs something more, especially
on court garb. Sometime when I have time, I hope to hand sew glass
beads and pearls to the trim as well, but that's going to be later.
You can see in the photos above how the skirts
look with the complete trimming.
The next few days will be spent working the organ pleats arrangement.
While I still have a few weeks before Hanford faire, I also have
to make my son's chemise as well (he grows so fast), so this base
better go fast! Let's see, I have:
- the trim to finish
- the pleats to mark and create,
- the skirt needs to be attached to the doublet,
- the doublet needs trim,
- the sleeves (from the Eliz. Doublet) need eyelets
- two strips of eyelets for the doublet itself.
Oye, that's a bit for me. I better get some sleep tonight. Although
I think my mind will be occupied with thoughts on how to mark evenly
spaced lines on the circle pattern.